 Skiing the Monroe Skyline
Published in Vermont Sports – Feb 06
Story and Photos by Brian Mohr
Soaking in a blue-green bath of winter’s twilight, I kick into a steady glide along Vermont’s Monroe Skyline. Stunted spruce trees break the wind, leaving only a whisper that shares, “you’ll make it… keep moving.”
I can feel the mercury dropping by the minute. A few clouds drift across my path. A glowing orb appears on the western horizon. Confined to the tunnel-like path of the Long Trail, I slide off the trail through an opening in the trees. Atop more than six feet of snowpack, I stand there in awe.
Before me, the glacially sculpted foothills of the Green Mountains float above a cold winter fog that masks the great Lake Champlain and the communities that surround it. On the horizon, the glowing orb grows into fiery curtain behind the highest peaks of the Adirondacks. Overhead, the first stars twinkle in the southern sky.
As darkness encroaches, I ski nowhere. I am spellbound on the Green Mountain divide, bearing witness to one of life’s greatest gifts, and wishing that I could share it with everyone I know. The thought of getting home before dark is the last thing one my mind.
--
Running from the banks of the Winooski River on its north end to Lincoln Gap on its south end, the thirty mile Monroe Skyline is a Green Mountain gem. Taking in five of Vermont’s ten highest peaks - including Camel’s Hump, Mt. Ellen, Cutts Peak, Lincoln Peak and Mt. Abraham – it is no wonder that Vermont Life recently elected the Monroe Skyline as #1 on the list of “places that everyone who loves Vermont should visit.”
There’s a good reason Sugarbush and Mad River Glen have grown up on the slopes east of the Skyline – the Skyline towers over 3000’ above the Mad River Valley. In fact, in-bounds at Sugarbush’s Mt. Ellen or “North”, one is able to ski 2600’ vertical without a hitch.
Following the highest route along the divide, the Long Trail traverses the Skyline, which is also a popular summer and fall hiking route. Come winter, the Skyline sees steady snowshoe traffic near the major trailheads (e.g. Appalachian Gap, Camel’s Hump), but relatively little ski traffic. To say the least, following the Skyline via the Long Trail can be quite treacherous on skis. In fact, I cannot really recommend it to anyone. However, for those with a very strong set of backcountry skiing skills and plenty of ambition, it can be a great adventure.
Over the years, I have slid my skis across every stretch of the Skyline, but I have never skied its entire length at once. Skiing the Skyline from the Winooski River to Lincoln Gap in a day would be a desperate attempt in my mind, so I’ve never bothered. But it’s doable, I am sure.
The magic of the Skyline is that it is chalk full of interesting features to explore and vistas from which you can relax and take in the beauty and solitude of the Green Mountains. Many stretches of the Skyline rarely see wintertime visitors, and feel truly remote. And no matter where you decide to explore, you are guaranteed to find something special.
Taking the route from north to south – a formidable ski up the Long Trail from the Winooski leads you to the winter wonderland of the Hump’s above-treeline summit. Tread ultra-lightly up here. Continuing south, you’ll drop to Wind Gap before clambering over Ira Allen, Ethan Allen and before long, the rocky outcroppings of Burnt Rock. The going can be rough through here, so be prepared to take off your skis and scramble.
South of Burnt Rock, the route is fairly rugged as you pass Huntington Gap – where the Catamount Trail crosses the divide – and pass over Beane, Molly Stark and Baby Stark Mountains and out to Appalachian Gap. South of “App Gap”, the trail improves and provides easy access to the Mad River Glen and Sugarbush’s ski areas.
Along the way, you’ll pass the summit station of the historic Single Chair, get strange looks from skiers whizzing past you on the summit slopes of Sugarbush “North”, and traverse the heights of the great Slide Brook basin. After passing “Castle Rock”, “Heaven’s Gate” and reaching Lincoln Peak atop Sugarbush “South”, it’s a short traverse out to Mt. Abraham. From there, a challenging descent carries you down to Lincoln Gap.
I make it sound so easy, but believe me, it’s not. Never will you do more wondering about whether to shed your climbing skins, or to leave them attached. On a good snow year, the Long Trail can be so buried in snow that you’ll be forced at times to crawl, beg and plead. And with hardly any room to manuever on most downhill sections, you’ll no doubt be wondering if your choice to ski the Monroe Skyline wasn’t really just a bad idea.
But then you’ll notice a fresh set of bobcat tracks, or a moose wandering slowly out ahead of you. You’ll stop for a minute to peek at the view of Bolton, Mansfield and the Worcester Range to the north; the Adirondacks to the west; the Northfields, Grotons and White Mountains to the east; and the endless reach of the Greens to the south. Ancient rocks, caverns of ice and snow goblins will make you wonder.
And if you are lucky, you might get to stay out after dark.
Resources:
Long Trail Guide – Published by the Green Mountain Club -
www.greenmountainclub.org
Winter Safety Tips:
-Always let someone know where you are headed;
-Be prepared to spend a night in the woods;
-Bring along plenty of food, water and a good equipment repair kit;
|
|
